- Door is very difficult to slide on the track or did not operate smoothly.
- The door is damaged from a break in, pet, or has poor repairs.
- The dead bolt needs adjustment or is missing.
- The ball catch on the door needs adjustment or is missing.
- The door is damaged, defective, delaminated, installed improperly, missing, or does not latch securely.
- The door does not shut, is not square, is off track, peeling paint, or has been removed.
- The door rubs at the bottom, floor, jamb, or top when opening and closing.
- The door swings open/closed, swings over the step, or is weathered.
- The door stop is damaged or missing.
- The floor guides are missing or not operating.
- There is a gap around the door.
- The door handle is damaged, difficult to turn, loose, or missing.
- The door hardware is not recessed.
- The hinge is loose, missing, or missing screws.
- The door jamb is deteriorated.
- The door knob is loose, missing, or in need of repair/replacement.
- The mirror on the door is cracked or broken.
- The door is missing the handle or some other hardware.
- The door needed nail heads set, putty, prep and paint or seal.
- The shower doors swing, have a missing handle, or is not latching.
- The slide latch is difficult to operate.
- The strike-plate is missing, not latching, or is not tight.
- The door was not inspected with a key.
- Weather stripping is missing, damaged, or revealed daylight.
- Window on the door is broken, cracked, or has a damaged seal.
- The door would not close properly.
- The ceiling has an access hole, crack, seam crack, multiple cracks, or several hairline cracks.
- The ceiling is damaged, deteriorated, loose, is missing a piece, or is missing in areas.
- The ceiling has nail pops, signs of repair, or is warped/buckled.
- The ceiling is peeling from water leak above.
- The ceiling has peeled in areas and needs prep/paint. The ceiling was peeling or loose.
- The ceiling has a light stain or a water stain.
- The ceiling revealed tape and nail beds in areas (cosmetic).
- The ceiling showed pulling or wrinkling of the drywall tape at the corner, which could reflect structural movement in this area.
- The walls have an access hole, bulge, crack, seam crack, hairline cracks, or multiple cracks.
- The walls have damage, pet damage, framing damage, or is deteriorated.
- The walls have missing or loose grout.
- The walls are loose or missing in areas.
- There are signs of moisture behind the walls and/or moisture stains on the walls.
- Possible mold-like substance is present on the walls.
- There are nail pops, peeling paint, or the wall is peeling/loose in areas.
- There are signs of repair or mismatch in paint at the walls.
- The wall is sloped, had tape pulling/wrinkling, or revealed tape and nail bed areas.
- The walls were missing silicone caulking around control knob cover plate.
- The walls were not finished properly (Missing caulk or paint).
- There is evidence of wood-destroying insects present at the walls.
- Sash Cords (Severed, Missing, Damaged)
- Crank Handle (Not Working, Loose, Missing, Damaged)
- Window Frame (Damaged, Loose, Peeling Paint, Moisture Damage)
- Window Did Not Close Completely
- Glass (Broken, Cracked, Missing, Loose at Frame)
- Glass Not Tempered
- Glazing Missing
- Grille (Damaged)
- Lock (Loose, Not Operating properly, Damaged, Missing)
- NI – AC Unit in Window
- Sash (Difficult to Operate, Not Aligned, Rubs or Scrapes, Stuck, Top Slides Down)
- Screens (Missing, Damaged)
- Window Thermal Seals (Damaged, Cloudy)
- Sill, Casing, Frame (Damaged)
- Spring Rails (Loose, Weak, Missing)
- Missing Cranks
- Locks Not Working
- The floor is blemished, cracked, damaged, deteriorated, or faded.
- The carpet is loose or loose at the edge.
- The grout on the flooring is damaged or missing.
- The floor has a hump, is loose, or missing.
- The floor needs shoe-mold, is not sealed at the edge, or is not sloped to drain.
- The floor had pet damage, slopes, squeaks, or is stained.
- The floor revealed a seam or had seams that were wide/inconsistent.
- The floor had tiles that were cracked, damaged, or loose.
- The floor had a transition piece that was missing, a trip hazard, or was warped/buckled.
- The floor was missing mortar/sealer or was not installed according to current standards.
- The floor felt weak (not supported), had wear/tear, or had wet stains.
- The floor revealed damage from WDI (Wood Destroying Insects).
- Does not butt evenly against wall (wall out of square).
- Countertop has more than an 8” inch overhang.
- Countertop had facing that was loose in some areas.
- Countertop has a burn mark, is chipped, is not level, is painted over, is stained, is swollen (blistered), is damaged, or is loose (not fastened securely).
- There is loose tile or grout at the countertop.
- The countertop has moisture stains or is swollen from moisture. (Showed signs of moisture intrusion).
- he countertop needs caulking with silicone along the backsplash.
- The countertop was cut out too wide at sink (gap was visible).
- The cabinets cannot open because it hits dishwasher or oven.
- The cabinets are damaged, don’t work smoothly, has loose hinges, is loose, is peeling in areas, is unfinished, uses drywall screws, has a loose handle, has moisture intrusion, or overlap each other when closing.
- The cabinets were warped or installed incorrectly.
- The cabinets rub against each other when opened, rubs/hits the dishwasher, rubs/hits the microwave, rubs/hits the oven door, or rubs/hits the refrigerator.
- The cabinets were sagged/warped, show wear/damage, has missing tracks/rails, were missing, or were missing hardware.
Plumbing Drain and Vent Systems
- Drains that clog, leak, fail, or that are damaged or kinked.
- Drains that are clogged, slow to drain, or missing.
- Drains that have an “S” trap.
- Traps that are missing or sloped incorrectly.
- Drains that didn’t operate properly or hold water in the sinks.
- Drains that are double trapped or have an improper connection.
- Drains that are rusted or deteriorated.
Plumbing Faucets and Fixtures
- Faucet that is cracked, dripped, dripped when off, leaked, leaked around mount, was damaged, was missing, did not work properly, was partially clogged, or was weak in volume and pressure.
- The spray nozzle is damaged, cracked, missing, loose, not working properly, dripped, dripped when off, or was stuck on spray mode. There was an “air-lock” when the spray nozzle was operated.
- The control knob is damaged, cracked, missing, loose, not working properly, or leaked.
- There is a hose that is blocked by the plumbing drain.
- There was weak pressure or volume at the kitchen sink.
- The control knob was “stripped” and doesn’t turn off properly.
- The faucet continued to produce a full stream of water even when the spray nozzle was being used.
Plumbing Water Supply and Shutoff Valves
- Shut off valves are damaged or difficult to access.
- The knob is damaged, missing, or rubs against a wall/cabinet.
- Shut off valves are leaking, missing, seized, corroded, or not present.
Food Waste Disposer
- The food waste disposer is damaged, hums, leaks, has a leak at the plumbing connection, is loose, noisy, or not working.
- The rubber strainer/guard was missing or damaged.
- The blades of the food waste disposer are rusty.
- The power switch is too low and does not prevent children from operating.
- The wiring is exposed, improper, has loose Romex, was missing a clamp, or was not secured.
- The food waste disposer works but has debris and/or is old/rusty.
- No GFCI protection
- Damaged or missing faceplate – Damaged or missing weatherproof cover
- GFCI has multiple on one circuit, not grounded, will not reset, will not trip, or is not present.
- Open Neutral – Reverse Polarity – Obstructed – Not Working – Not Grounded – Obstructed – Wired to Light.
- Light socket adapter being used instead of having its own outlet.
- Bulb(s) that are either missing or not working.
- Can’t find light switch so unable to operate the light fixtures.
- Light fixture has a chain that is missing or stuck.
- The cord to the light fixture is hanging by the electrical wiring.
- The light cover is cracked or damaged.
- The light fixture is damaged, exposed, using an extension cord, is flickering, loose, missing, or has broken glass.
- Light fixture is missing a cover, missing glass, missing a globe, or missing a part.
- Light fixture is not working or is old/rusty.
- The dishwasher door did not open/close, was damaged, or fell open.
- The control knob is loose, damaged, or missing.
- The dishwasher is damaged, not attached, leaked, was noisy, didn’t drain, not filling with water, not operational, rubs cabinet/oven door, is rusted, or won’t stay closed.
- The dishwasher handle is loose, damaged, or missing.
- The dishwasher racks are loose, damaged, missing, missing wheels, are rusted, or did not operate properly. The soap dish is damaged or missing.
- Having a gas leak at the gas oven/range. Would check for gas leaks with gas detector at the burners, knobs, and if accessible, at the shutoff valve and gas line behind the range. Make sure gas detector is in the picture.
- Gas/electric ranges not starting and not heating up.
- Damage to the oven door or cooktop.
- Knobs being burned or missing.
- Digital displays not working.
- Ovens that are unbalanced and not leveled out to countertop height.
- Helpful Hint: If gas burners don’t fire up because its and you see the little spark and it is igniting, but it’s not firing up, you can try moving those little circles around and even try taking them off and putting them back on. Sometimes those are bumped to the side and it’s not allowing it to spark or to fire up properly, so try and move each one of those around just to make sure and see if that’s what the problem is. Then you can look and see if it is actually sparking or not. You can also diagnose it just one step further and see if there is actually gas coming out of it as well. If the whole gas range does not fire up, you may want to check and make sure that the gas is turned on. You can even get out your gas detector to see if you are getting any gas coming out, so if just sparking and nothing is firing up check and see if there is gas.
- There is crust or grime build-up on the range hood.
- The control panel is loose or broken, but still appears to function properly.
- The range hood did not work, was installed too low, is missing, is noisy/vibrates, is loose, or the light did not work.
- The range hood is missing a fan cover, light bulb, or a Romex connector.
- The range hood was not functional or is not installed properly and vents into the kitchen.
- There is an open splice at the range hood.
- The range hood vents into the cabinet or into the attic.
- The range hood works but is old.
- Microwave is damaged or has a door that is not shutting.
- The display is malfunctioning.
- The frame of the microwave is damaged.
- The handle is broken or damaged.
- The microwave has a leak.
- The microwave leans forward which causes the door to fall open when not latched.
- The light inside the microwave is not working.
- The microwave is not working or needs to be cleaned.
- The microwave was not operational because the control pad and display were not functional at the time of the inspection.
- The water not working at the refrigerator.
- The temperatures in the refrigerator or freezer not being cold enough.
- The refrigerator not being operational or being damaged.
- Control indicator is illegible.
- The trash compactor did not work when operated.
- Trash compactor does not cycle properly or the knob is broken.
- The trash compactor had storage items inside and was not being used as a compactor.
Presence of Installed Heat Source
- Supply register or return air cover is damaged, broken, loose, missing, noisy, old, or weak.
- There is no heat coming to the supply register.
- Baseboard heater is damaged, broken, loose, missing, noisy, old, weak, or has no heat coming from it.
- Supply register is not intended for the floor.
- The louver on the supply register is stuck or damaged.
- There is no cover for the supply register, baseboard heater, or return air vent.