Door(s)
- Door is very difficult to slide on the track or did not operate smoothly.
- The door is damaged from a break in, pet, or has poor repairs.
- The dead bolt needs adjustment or is missing.
- The ball catch on the door needs adjustment or is missing.
- The door is damaged, defective, delaminated, installed improperly, missing, or does not latch securely.
- The door does not shut, is not square, is off track, peeling paint, or has been removed.
- The door rubs at the bottom, floor, jamb, or top when opening and closing.
- The door swings open/closed, swings over the step, or is weathered.
- The door stop is damaged or missing.
- The floor guides are missing or not operating.
- There is a gap around the door.
- The door handle is damaged, difficult to turn, loose, or missing.
- The door hardware is not recessed.
- The hinge is loose, missing, or missing screws.
- The door jamb is deteriorated.
- The door knob is loose, missing, or in need of repair/replacement.
- The mirror on the door is cracked or broken.
- The door is missing the handle or some other hardware.
- The door needed nail heads set, putty, prep and paint or seal.
- The shower doors swing, have a missing handle, or is not latching.
- The slide latch is difficult to operate.
- The strike-plate is missing, not latching, or is not tight.
- The door was not inspected with a key.
- Weather stripping is missing, damaged, or revealed daylight.
- Window on the door is broken, cracked, or has a damaged seal.
- The door would not close properly.
Door(s)
- The exhaust fan had a cover that was damaged or missing.
- The exhaust fan was damaged or dirty.
- The exterior vent was damaged or missing.
- The light on the exhaust fan flickered or was not working.
- The exhaust fan hummed during operation.
- The light cover had a burn mark, was damaged, or was missing.
- The exhaust fan was loose, missing, noisy, not working, or did not have a switch.
- The exhaust fan was not venting to the exterior.
- The exhaust fan was old, weak, or slow to work.
- The exhaust fan had a switch that was wired wrong.
Ceilings
- The ceiling has an access hole, crack, seam crack, multiple cracks, or several hairline cracks.
- The ceiling is damaged, deteriorated, loose, is missing a piece, or is missing in areas.
- The ceiling has nail pops, signs of repair, or is warped/buckled.
- The ceiling is peeling from water leak above.
- The ceiling has peeled in areas and needs prep/paint.
- The ceiling was peeling or loose.
- The ceiling has a light stain or a water stain.
- The ceiling revealed tape and nail beds in areas (cosmetic).
- The ceiling showed pulling or wrinkling of the drywall tape at the corner, which could reflect structural movement in this area.
- Evidence of possible mold-like substance was observed on ceiling.
Walls
- The walls have an access hole, bulge, crack, seam crack, hairline cracks, or multiple cracks.
- The walls have damage, pet damage, framing damage, or is deteriorated.
- The walls have missing or loose grout.
- The walls are loose or missing in areas.
- There are signs of moisture behind the walls and/or moisture stains on the walls.
- Possible mold-like substance is present on the walls.
- There are nail pops, peeling paint, or the wall is peeling/loose in areas.
- There are signs of repair or mismatch in paint at the walls.
- The wall is sloped, had tape pulling/wrinkling, or revealed tape and nail bed areas.
- The walls were missing silicone caulking around control knob cover plate.
- The walls were not finished properly (Missing caulk or paint).
- There is evidence of wood-destroying insects present at the walls.
- Evidence of possible mold-like substance is present on the walls.
- The medicine cabinet, mirror, shelf, soap dish, toilet paper holder, towel bar, or towel ring has any type of damage or is loose.
Floors
- The floor is blemished, cracked, damaged, deteriorated, or faded.
- The carpet is loose or loose at the edge.
- The grout on the flooring is damaged or missing.
- The floor has a hump, is loose, or missing.
- The floor needs shoe-mold, is not sealed at the edge, or is not sloped to drain.
- The floor had pet damage, slopes, squeaks, or is stained.
- The floor revealed a seam or had seams that were wide/inconsistent.
- The floor had tiles that were cracked, damaged, or loose.
- The floor had a transition piece that was missing, a trip hazard, or was warped/buckled.
- The floor was missing mortar/sealer or was not installed according to current standards.
- The floor felt weak (not supported), had wear/tear, or had wet stains.
- The floor revealed damage from WDI (Wood Destroying Insects).
- The floor had tiles that may contain asbestos.
Windows
- Sash Cords (Severed, Missing, Damaged)
- Crank Handle (Not Working, Loose, Missing, Damaged)
- Window Frame (Damaged, Loose, Peeling Paint, Moisture Damage)
- Window Did Not Close Completely
- Glass (Broken, Cracked, Missing, Loose at Frame)
- Glass Not Tempered Glazing Missing
- Grille (Damaged)
- Lock (Loose, Not Operating properly, Damaged, Missing)
- NI – AC Unit in Window
- Sash (Difficult to Operate, Not Aligned, Rubs or Scrapes, Stuck, Top Slides Down)
- Screens (Missing, Damaged)
- Window Thermal Seals (Damaged, Cloudy)
- Sill, Casing, Frame (Damaged)
- Spring Rails (Loose, Weak, Missing)
- Missing Cranks
- Locks Not Working
Electrical Outlets
- No GFCI protection
- Damaged or missing faceplate – Damaged or missing weatherproof cover
- GFCI has multiple on one circuit, not grounded, will not reset, will not trip, or is not present.
- Open Neutral – Reverse Polarity – Not Working – Not Grounded – Obstructed – Wired to Light.
Electrical Fixtures and Switches
- Light fixture uses a light socket adapter and should have own outlet.
- Light bulb is missing or not working.
- Can’t find the switch to turn on the light fixture.
- The chain at the light fixture is missing or stuck.
- The cord is hanging by electrical wiring.
- The light cover is cracked or damaged.
- The light fixture is damaged, exposed, flickered, loose, missing, has broken glass, or uses an extension cord.
- There is a missing cover, missing, glass, missing globe, or missing a part.
- The light fixture is not working or old/rusty.
- The closet light has an exposed light bulb or does not have proper clearance from storage area.
Counters
- Does not butt evenly against wall (wall out of square).
- Countertop has more than an 8” inch overhang.
- Countertop had facing that was loose in some areas.
- Countertop has a burn mark, is chipped, is not level, is painted over, is stained, is swollen (blistered), is damaged, or is loose (not fastened securely).
- There is loose tile or grout at the countertop.
- The countertop has moisture stains or is swollen from moisture. (Showed signs of moisture intrusion).
- The countertop needs caulking with silicone along the backsplash.
- The countertop was cut out too wide at sink (gap was visible).
Cabinets
- The cabinets are damaged, don’t work smoothly, has loose hinges, is loose, is peeling in areas, is unfinished, uses drywall screws, has a loose handle, has moisture intrusion, or overlap each other when closing.
- The cabinets were warped or installed incorrectly.
- The cabinets rub against each other when opened, rubs/hits the dishwasher, rubs/hits the microwave, rubs/hits the oven door, or rubs/hits the refrigerator.
- The cabinets were sagged/warped, show wear/damage, has missing tracks/rails, were missing, or were missing hardware.
- There is mold present in the bathroom cabinets.
Plumbing, Drain, Waste and Vent Systems
- Drains that clog, leak, fail, or that are damaged or kinked.
- Drains that are clogged, slow to drain, or missing.
- Drains that have an “S” trap.
- Traps that are missing or sloped incorrectly.
- Drains that didn’t operate properly or hold water in the sinks.
- Drains that are double trapped or have an improper connection.
- Drains that are rusted or deteriorated.
Plumbing Water Supply and Shut-Off Valves
- The shut-off valves are difficult to access or are damaged.
- The knob of the shut-off valves is damaged, missing, or rubs against a wall, cabinet, or other obstruction.
- The shut-off valves are leaking, missing, seized, corroded, or not present.
Toilet
- The toilet bowl is cracked.
- The flush on the toilet is weak, slow to fill, or you have to hold the lever down.
- The toilet handle is missing or damaged.
- The toilet leaks on the floor, into the bowl, at the shut off valve, at the tank mount, from the tank to the toilet, or at the water supply.
- The toilet is loose on the floor (either slightly or very).
- The toilet runs after flushing.
- The toilet seat was damaged, loose, or missing.
- The shut off valve is missing at the toilet.
- The toilet makes a loud whining sound when the tank was refilling.
- The supply valve at the toilet was off.
- The tank lid is cracked or missing at the toilet.
Fixture Valve Installation and Temperature
- Shower/bathtub fixtures were installed improperly with reversed configuration.
- The hot water does not get above 100 degrees. The cold water does not get under 80 degrees.
- Sinks having reversed configuration (document under plumbing fixtures).
Installed Heat Source
- Supply register or return air cover is damaged, broken, loose, missing, noisy, old, or weak.
- There is no heat coming to the supply register.
- Baseboard heater is damaged, broken, loose, missing, noisy, old, weak, or has no heat coming from it.
- Supply register is not intended for the floor.
- The louver on the supply register is stuck or damaged.
- There is no cover for the supply register, baseboard heater, or return air vent.
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